Today meant whales, whales and more whales plus a glacier. It was great! This morning I was on a big catamaran out in Auke Bay looking for humpbacks, and we found them. At one point there were 5 around us at the same time. Fascinating and a little awe-inspiring. I kept thinking “the Leviathan, which He made for the sport of it”. There were people in kayaks nearby and I really wondered what would happen if a whale decided to get a little close to one – I’ll bet a couple of the kayakers started thinking the same thing! These enormous creatures obviously were familiar with some of the whale-watching boats and almost played around with us – I’m pretty sure one whet UNDER the boat just because. Although there were maybe 40 people on the boat, whenever we saw “blow” and were hoping to spot a whale, there was silence – sort of waiting for the jagic to begin. The crew was really knowledgable about the wildlife overall and these whales in particular (Mr. Wiggles, Sasha and Slaine in part). Sea lions and a beautiful setting really made this special.

Afterwards we were off the Mendenhall Glacier. Although it was a fairly short visit, I managed a hike to Horsefeather Falls (I think that’s the name) which was spectacular. We could see the glacial ice fairly nearby, which stretches more than 13 miles. Gorgeous.

On to Skagway.

Icy Strait Point is a tiny Tlingit village of about 900 that decided to restore what they could to its original character, add a museum chronicling salmon and subsistence fishing and offer adventures such as zip-lining and whale watching to help fund their community. The Hoona people were so welcoming! We attended a presentation on tribal dance and legends which could have been silly (especially with the presenters being high school students) but somehow was just charming. The students all earn high school credit as well as money and were excited to be taking their stories to a big conference on native legends.

We spent some time in the cannery museum as well as the many small shops they have as part of this – all offering Alaskan crafts and products.

Afternoon – first try at whale-watching! Small boat with three big outboard engines and about 15 passengers. A fast transit out to sea as we asked how often his groups see whales. “We always see whales” seemed a little brash but he was right! Sightings of two different groups of humpbacks was just magical. They are so BIG – think the size of a school bus. We learned to watch for the “blow” as the whales surface and the final tails-up before they dive deep. Just terrific.

So much fun that I’m doing it again tomorrow – from Juneau

Sitka is beautiful – and small! But it’s one of the larger towns in this part of Alaska and was once the capital of Russian Alaska. I enjoyed a walking tour that included St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox church – onion domes and icons. The church burned down some years ago but the townspeople rallied to save most of the icons and church treasures by making a human chain and passing things out to safety. The church was rebuilt in the same design.

The indigenous Tlingit people are a major part of the people and culture of Sitka. The Sitka National Historical Park is home to quite a number of totem poles and sits in the Tongrass National Forest. We enjoyed a hike through this temperate rain forest while hearing about the various plants and animals (fortunately, we only heard about bears, didn’t see any). Off the the Alaska Raptor Center for a fascinating presentation on the eagles, hawks and owls these vets and volunteers rehabilitate and hopefully release back into the wild. The birds were beautiful and seeing bald eagles and kestrels up close was amazing.

This excursion was followed by some spa time – and dinner. Don’t worry, we are not starving on this ship. Tomorrow will be Icy Strait Point and hopefully some whales.

First port of call – Ketchikan. Tiny town just a few thousand yet it’s the 4th largest in Alaska. I spent our time here eating!

After enjoying time on the ship, Alf visited the Totem Park here in Ketchikan while I took a bus to a boat to a lodge. We saw eagles – lots of them! And harbor seals. And a kelp farm (you can grow and sell kelp but not harvest the wild stuff). A small boat took us from Clover Pass to the Silverking Lodge at breakneck speed – this is a relatively new fishing lodge for salmon fishers complete with local black-tail deer and starfish in clear, clear water. We hiked in the nearby Tongass National Forest – filled with huge cedars and hemlocks, including Chester, the biggest, oldest red cedar known in the area – simply huge. Hiking was followed by lunching at the lodge. Lots and lots of Dungeness crabs, corn, potatoes, shrimp, mussels, clams and napkins – all steamed when we arrived and dumped on the newspaper-covered tables (except the napkins). Fantastic.

Lunch was followed by the return boat trip – again at full speed, full bumps, full noise and full people. Add seafood and shake!

Fortunately, I had a bit of time off before the port talk (presentation about the next destination) so while Alf indulged himself in the spa – which has steam and sauna, hot tub, cold plunge and snow grotto, I looked into the fancy salon. Not doing the snow, nope, not me.

Dinner in the Italian restaurant – very good indeed. Sitka tomorrow.

We are aboard! Wow, these people really know how to make things go smoothly. Out of the taxi and our luggage was collected within a minute and we were directed to the registration area. No line (we are fortunately in staterooms that have early access to the ship) as we showed passports, collected room keys and excursion tickets. Another walk and through security (just like an airport). More walking and through immigration – so legally we are now back in the USA – I don’t think my phone thinks so but details. Offered water and coffee and within a few minutes were able to board. This ship is almost new and simply pristine. There must be a staff person for every 2 passengers! Two steps into the ship and we were handed hot towels and champagne and directed to a lounge area to relax. Alf and I figured out the wifi, studied the deck plans and set out to explore the ship. At noon lunch was available (very good indeed) and then into the staterooms. The steward showed us all the workings, brought ice, brought the luggage and here we are! I’m unpacked, online and heading up to the sports deck in a few minutes. Lifeboat drill in an hour, embarking in two. Tomorrow we will be sailing through the Inside Passage. Such fun! Pictures tomorrow. Hope everyone had a nice 4th – always weird to be out of the country on the day.

This is a really nice city – sort of Seattle with a different attitude. I walked and walked today trying to see places I missed last trip here.

First stop – Granville Island. And yes, we visited the market a few years ago, but a public market is one of my favorite things! Filled with flowers, fruit, local honey, local crafts and local people, our early-morning visit was great. Particularly entranced by the broom store. Who knew that could be a thing? Alf took a ferry to the skytrain and enjoyed riding around and looking at everything while I continued to explore the market and before taking the 1-minute “AquaBus” across the inlet and then walking through the city back to our hotel.

I followed a sushi lunch with a visit to the Vancouver Art Gallery, which is large and mostly special exhibits. Giacometti was the subject of one and his sculptures were glorious. There were also a few Emily Carr paintings on display which was terrific (she is a very well know painter here in the northwest – sort of Georgia O’Keefe-ish).

Dodging bicycles and many many skateboards I headed for Stanley Park, a huge urban green area. Actually, the walk itself was fascinating – passing the cannabis shops, the muji store (I think this is sort of a Japanese organizer store – or maybe ikea – they had everything but it seemed like the packaging was the interesting part – clearly I was missing something), innumerably Starbucks, very tony apartments with fountains and gardeners, dim sum and ramen shops with long lines, homeless people sleeping on the sidewalks, a great many eyeglasses shops (why?). Stanley Park itself is huge and we’ve explored the interior previously so as the weather became a little less inviting I walked around the Secret Lagoon, saw turtles swimming, enjoyed the flowers and headed back.

Dinner at Hawksworth was fantastic! Thinly sliced scallop with grape and lovage, duck breast with rhubarb jam and fava beans, veal tenderloin with mushrooms made many ways – all of it simply beautiful and delicious.

Tired tonight – packing and off to the ship in the morning.

 

We made it! After sleeping the sleep of the tired traveler, we enjoyed what I think of as a “real food” breakfast – French toast and coffee in a mug instead of a paper cup.

First stop today – Canada Place. This is the waterfront and includes the cruise ship terminal. We explored the area, found where we will need to go to check in for the cruise portion of this adventure, watched float planes take off and land in the harbor and looked at the city through the low clouds of typical maritime weather. Alf elected to Hop On-Hop Off and I set off on foot to explore. The Olympic cauldron (harbor area), Public Library (looks like the Coliseum),foo dogs (Chinatown), steam clock and Gassy Jack (Gastown) were followed by great pizza (wood-fired, fennel, onions, olives, basil, garlic, fresh mozz).

A bit of down time at the hotel was followed by dinner at CinCin – yum! Grilled flying squid, ricotta gnocchi with rosemary, wild mushrooms and summer truffle, grilled branzino. Everything delicious.

Welcome night of sleeping ahead! Tomorrow will be the Granville Market and Vancouver Art Museum.

So, off to Alaska. Vancouver, the Viking ship Orion, Denali and Anchorage. Can’t wait!

 

Heading home in a few hours – Siem Reap to Singapore (long layover) then Singapore to Los Angeles via Seoul, customs, immigration, LA to Washington, a night at a Dulles hotel and finally, finally driving to Charlottesville Monday morning. Really looking forward to some iced tea, TV other than BBC News, not wearing insect repellent 24/7, tap water to brush my teeth, non-Asian food for dinner (I love it but one kind of wants a taco or something occasionally), and even grocery shopping, driving my own car, fast internet (or any internet) and lots of cell signal. Mostly though, really looking forward to home, friends, family. See you on the flip side!

Debbie

Ta Promh Temple (the Jungle Temple), the Banteay Srei (the Women’s Temple) and finally, the Pre Rup Temple (I don’t think this one has a local name but it’s the brick temple).

The Jungle Temple is amazing – it was covered with jungle and is slowly re-emerging. The restoration teams are leaving some of the strangling figs and other giant vegetation in place. Does it look familiar? Think Tomb Raider.

The Women’s Temple refers to the delicacy of the carving that covers the towers, actually all surfaces – it is suggested that only women could have created such intricate carvings.

Our final temple call was at Pre Rup – quiet, with most carvings no longer visible. The brick was covered with a form of stucco that has disintegrated along with the decorations that were on it. However, the views and tiny remaining details are still impressive.

Our farewell dinner is tonight and tomorrow we all begin our travels toward home.